Feature: The BIGGEST watch launches of the last 20 years
Having been in the industry for over twenty years, we at Watchfinder have seen an array of watches come and go, some of which shook up the watch world for all the right reasons. To celebrate the biggest watch launches of the past two decades or so, we’ve rounded up seven unforgettable releases that we’ll still be thinking about in twenty years’ time!
2002: IWC Big Pilots Watch
It’s 2002 and IWC just released its first Big Pilot’s Watch—reference 5002. This was the watch that transformed the perception of watch sizing, making what we once considered a large watch something we would call a medium-size piece today. Back then, any watch bigger than 40mm or 41mm was thought to be mahoosive! The first Big Pilot’s watch had a military look, with its brown calfskin strap, rivets, large diamond-shaped crown and an impressive 46mm case. It’s a watch that remains one of IWC’s signature pieces.
2004: Rolex Daytona Leopard 116598SACO
Image courtesy of Bonhams
2004 saw the release of Rolex’s wackiest watch, the Daytona 116598SACO. This 18k yellow gold piece with 36 cognac-coloured, baguette-cut sapphires in the bezel, plus 48 smaller diamonds between the lugs, isn’t for the faint-hearted. What’s more, the gaudy leopard print motif on the dial and the strap made the Daytona Leopard an instant talking point. Its value has only skyrocketed since its discontinuation in 2019, plus, it has found its way onto the wrists of celebrities including cult Hollywood actor Nicolas Cage—we think that says it all...
2005: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
The Omega Seamaster has been a staple in the brand’s collection since its inception in 1948. In 1957 Omega rose to the challenge of competing with its biggest rival, Rolex, when it adopted a sportier look. Fast forward to 2005, and the athletic appeal of this 1957 version was revived by Omega as the new and improved Seamaster Planet Ocean. In true Omega style, this model made its on-screen debut in 007 film Casino Royale via James Bond’s—or Daniel Craig’s—wrist the following year. And if that doesn’t draw you in, we don’t know what will.
2012: Tudor Heritage Black Bay
In 2012 Tudor launched its iconic Heritage Black Bay—a dive watch inspired by Tudor’s Prince Submariner from 1964. It shared all the characteristics of typical vintage dive watches, albeit with a chunkier 41mm case. It also boasted a distinctive burgundy bezel and a black dial that featured the vintage Tudor rose logo—printed on dials between 1947 and 1969, before the current Tudor shield. The Black Bay is considered the watch to raise Tudor’s reputation within the industry in what’s dubbed the “Tudor Renaissance”, which helped it emerge from Rolex’s shadow. And for that, we have to salute the Black Bay.
2014: Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime
Launched in 2014 to mark Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary, the Grandmaster Chime became part of the prestigious watchmaker’s core collection, and for good reason, too. It’s a display of pure craftmanship from Patek, so much so you’d be forgiven for rolling your eyes at the show-off nature of it. The most complex Patek Philippe wristwatch ever, it features a staggering 20 complications, including five acoustic functions, two of which were patented global premières including an alarm that strikes the pre-programmed alarm time and a date repeater that sounds the date on demand. This was a remarkable watch from Patek Philippe which continues to woo watch fans today.
2018: Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi Ceramic
Unless you’ve been living in a cave for the past few years, you may have noticed there’s been a rise in demand for stainless-steel Rolex sport models—it’s the reason behind the years-long waiting lists and sky-high prices. One of the Rolexes amid this hype is the GMT-Master II with the beloved “Pepsi” bezel. Rolex introduced a scratch-proof ceramic version at Baselworld 2018, where it became an instant hit—besides, who wants to risk scratching that striking signature “Pepsi” bezel anyway? Not us, that’s for sure!
2022: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding 50th Anniversary
Last year Audemars Piguet saw its most beloved model turn 50 years old. That’s right, the Royal Oak has been around for half a century now and, boy, did it make an impression all those years ago. Well, AP isn’t finished with its Royal Oak just yet, the brand released a new generation model that we reckon its original designer, Gerald Genta, would be proud of. The collection includes a range of models, the most notable being the Royal Oak Self-Winding—a simple 37mm piece with an improved movement and sophisticated slim case.
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