Feature: The Best 25 Patek Philippe watches
When the early 20th-century business moguls Henry Graves and James Ward Packard—the Musk and Bezos of their day—competed with each other to own the world’s most complicated watch, it was the legendary Patek Philippe to whom they turned.
Over two decades, their horological one-upmanship resulted in two of the most complicated timepieces ever made, cementing the brand’s reputation as the finest watchmaker on the planet.
Today, Patek Philippe still offers its clients the very best in haute horlogerie, from finely engraved minute repeaters to mind-boggling astronomical watches that chart the constellations of the night sky. And alongside these sit long-running collections like the totemic Calatrava and Nautilus—as influential today as they’ve ever been.
Here, we’ve rounded up 25 of the brand’s vintage classics, contemporary icons, plus a few under-appreciated models that have helped it remain a leader in its field, as well as the stand-out performer at the biggest watch auctions.
The first Nautilus, reference 3700
Launched in 1976, the first Nautilus was designed by Gerald Genta. Image courtesy of Bonhams
It seems that the less time Gerald Genta took to design a watch, the better it turned out. He conjured up Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak overnight, while the Nautilus was practically a doodle while idling in a restaurant during a trade fair. Genta claimed to have spotted a group of Patek Philippe executives across the room and asked a passing waiter for a pencil and paper. Influenced by the shape of a ship’s porthole, he quickly knocked out the design and the rest is history. This is the inaugural model, the reference 3700, released in 1976.
First generation Calatrava, reference 96
The reference 96 laid the foundations for the archetypal dress watch. Image courtesy of Bonhams
Introduced in 1932, the Calatrava became Patek Philippe’s most successful line at the time. Its debut model, the reference 96, made quite the impression, becoming a blueprint for the archetypal dress watch. Following the “less is more” mantra of the German Bauhaus movement, the Calatrava boasts a minimalist style that was truly ground-breaking—so much so, the 96 stayed in production for over 40 years. Its hallmarks include gold faceted indices, dauphine hands and a small-seconds dial at 6 o’clock.
Calatrava, reference 5196P
A Calatrava with an unmistakeably Breguet aesthetic. Image courtesy of Phillips
For those who consider the original 1932 Calatrava (above) too minimal, the relatively modern 5196P is a fine alternative. For many a discerning collector, its two-tone dial featuring applied Breguet numerals and feuille hands is nothing less than perfect, while the manual-wind 215 PS movement keeps the platinum case button-thin and able to slide under the snuggest shirt cuff. If this watch is beyond your budget, check out Baltic’s popular MR-01 collection, which was clearly influenced by this model.
Celestial Moon Age, reference 6102P-001
The reference 6102 is one of the greatest astronomical watches of recent times. Image courtesy of Phillips
The relationship between watches and astronomy stretches back to medieval times and the first rudimentary clocks. The incredible Patek Philippe Celestial Moon Age, launched in 2012, brings this relationship up to the 21st century and will thrill those of a celestial persuasion. The dial is essentially a chart depicting in real time the night sky above Geneva and any other locations with the same latitude, while its moonphase is accurate to one day in over a thousand years. An update to the previous reference 5102, the 6102 comes in rose gold or, like this one, platinum.
Regulator Annual Calendar, reference 5235/50R-001
Regulator watches have unusual dial layouts and an off-beat appeal
A regulator watch separates the hours and minutes so that each has its own dial. The top subdial displays the hours, and the minutes are displayed on the main dial via the centrally mounted hand. The lower subdial displays the constantly running seconds. This fine model in white gold is also an annual calendar and places the day and month in apertures either side of the upper dial, while the date window sits at 6 o’clock. It was inspired by a regulator clock hanging in the office of former company president Philippe Stern. Granted, telling the time requires more than a passing glance, but for many collectors regulator watches offer a certain offbeat charm.
Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, reference 1518
The legendary 1518 is like gold-dust on the auction scene, especially the steel version. Image courtesy of Phillips
To leave out the legendary 1518 from this list would be a cardinal sin, not only because it was the first ever series-produced wristwatch with both a perpetual calendar and a chronograph, but because so few were made. Gold versions were produced in the low hundreds, but steel? We’re talking low single digits. Which is why examples of the latter easily fetch $5m-plus at auction. The 1518 is an aristocrat of the vintage watch world and those four digits should be lodged in the memory of any Patek fan.
World Time, reference 1415
One of the earliest world time wristwatches, the reference 1415. Image courtesy of Phillips
As international flights and global communication developed in the first half of the 20th century, the world time watch became a handy gadget for jetsetters and those with overseas business interests. The person who did the most to develop this complication with his genius Heure Universalle mechanism was Louis Cottier, creating his first pocket watch world-timer in 1932 for Vacheron Constantin. By 1939 he had managed to fit the complication into a 31mm wristwatch for rivals, Patek Philippe. This was the 1415, which stood out for its teardrop lugs and rotating bezel engraved with the world’s major cities. This particular version also comes with a cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of Eurasia.
Nautilus “Tiffany blue”, reference 5711
This Tiffany blue Nautilus is one of the most talked-about watches of the past few years. Image courtesy of Phillips
The Nautilus 5711 was the “it” model in Patek Philippe’s catalogue from its debut in 2006 until 2021 when it was discontinued and replaced by the 5811. The Tiffany blue edition is undoubtedly the most desirable model, boasting the jeweller’s signature blue shade on the dial, as well as its name at 6 o’clock. A watch this good has attracted a plethora of celebrity owners from rapper Jay-Z to basketball legend LeBron James. Only 170 Tiffany 5711s exist, making it incredibly rare. Thankfully, the green-dial version is just as eye-catching and easier to obtain for those searching for a colourful Nautilus.
"Disco Volante", reference 2594
The disc-like case of the reference 2594 led to its "Disco Volante" nickname. Image courtesy of Bonhams
Throughout the 1950s and 1960s, several brands—from Omega to Audemars Piguet—produced models that were nicknamed "Disco Volante" (“Flying Saucer”) by Italian collectors. These featured an extra-wide bezel, short or concealed lugs and a recessed crown. This is Patek’s most luxurious lady’s version, an 18k-gold beauty with a sensational Gay Freres bracelet. Gerald Genta is said to have designed Audemars Piguet’s Disco Volante, but it’s unclear as to whether he had a hand in those by rival brands.
Neptune, reference 5085
The discontinued Neptune was ahead of its time. Image courtesy of Phillips
Had the Neptune been launched a few years ago at the height of luxury steel sports watchmania, it would be as lusted-after as the Nautilus. But this discontinued series with its fishscale-style bracelet was simply ahead of its time. The first Neptune was actually the reference 5080, a time-and-date model released in 1996, but we prefer this one, the more complicated reference 5085, which followed it two years later. It's often referred to as a sleeper hit.
Calatrava, Reference 5227
This modern Calatrava is renowned for its concealed hinged caseback
If you thought the original Calatrava reference 96 wasn’t plain enough, this one ramps up the minimalism, dispensing with the small-seconds subdial at 6 o’clock and adding a small date window at 3 o’clock. What’s really special about this 2013 release though is the invisibly hinged dust cover protecting the exhibition caseback, a nod to the early hunter pocket watches that used to have this feature. This cover is unembellished, making it ideal for personal engravings. It comes in rose, white or yellow gold and with a black or ivory-coloured dial.
The first self-winding Perpetual Calendar, reference 3448
The reference 3448 was the world's first self-winding perpetual calendar wristwatch. Image courtesy of Phillips
The reference 3448 is notable for being the world’s first self-winding perpetual calendar wristwatch and was manufactured continuously between 1962 and 1981, making it unusual but not especially rare. Much rarer is the “Senza Luna” (“without moon”) variation, which comes without the moonphase display at 6 o’clock and is shrouded in mystery, with some uncertainty over whether these plainer dials are after-market. Our pick is this platinum moonphase version with sapphire markers which sold for £1.8m at a Phillips auction in 2021.
Gilbert Albert-designed, reference 3424
Gilbert Albert designed this asymmetric 1960s dress watch. Image courtesy of Bonhams
Asymmetric watch cases were the height of fashion during the “groovy” 1960s and Patek Philippe was just as susceptible to the whims of the era as any other brand. This 18k yellow-gold model from 1967—the same year Cartier released its oddball Crash model—was designed by Gilbert Albert, a Swiss jeweller who also lent his distinctive vision to Omega during the same period. The rare reference 3424 is both unconventional and refined, its stunning gold mesh bracelet enhancing the luxurious aesthetic.
World timer and minute repeater, reference 5531G
The reference 5531G combines two much-loved complications
Patek Philippe, with the help of the watchmaker Louis Cottier, had an unrivalled influence on the development of the world timer and it remains something of a signature complication for the brand. This model, launched in 2017, has the added benefit of a minute repeater that chimes the local time, while the dial is adorned with a cloisonné enamel motif depicting a steamship on Lake Geneva. It’s a technical and aesthetic masterpiece.
Annual Calendar Chronograph, reference 5960P
This model featured the brand's first in-house self-winding chronograph. Image courtesy of Bonhams
It’s hard to believe that it took Patek Philippe until 2006 to launch its first in-house self-winding chronograph. This was the reference 5960P, its innovative monocounter placing the chronograph hours and minutes subdials concentrically at 6 o’clock, along with a discreet day/night indicator. Conveniently, this left space in the upper dial for the three annual calendar apertures—day, date, and month—as well as a power reserve display below the date window. It’s a highly regarded 21st century platinum Patek with some pleasing vintage elements.
Nautilus Chronograph, reference 5980
The first Nautilus chronograph, released to instant acclaim in 2006. Image courtesy of Bonhams
In 2006, Patek took the CH 28-520 movement it used for the 5960 (see above) and used a slightly modified version to power the first-ever Nautilus chronograph. The result was the 5980, one of the most in-demand models during those crazy, post-pandemic luxury sports watch boom years. The plain steel 5980/1A-001 was the one to own, featuring a mesmerising gradient dark blue dial with the familiar horizontal grooves and white monocounter at 6 o’clock. Multiple versions followed, from two-tone to white gold, but this remains the most eye-catching.
Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, reference 5970
The reference 5970, a modern perpetual calendar chronograph with vintage looks. Image courtesy of Phillips
One of the most revered Pateks of all time, the 5970 is a perpetual calendar chronograph that traces its lineage back to the aforementioned 1518. But although it looks like a vintage model from the 1940s, it was actually produced during the first decade of this millennium. Notably it was the last Patek chronograph to feature a Lemania-based movement, the caliber 27-70 Q. The 5970 came in all three gold variations and platinum and was a favourite of watch-collecting rock legend Eric Clapton, who owned at least two.
Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, ref 2499
The reference 2499 replaced the legendary 1518. Image courtesy of Phillips
The reference 2499 made its debut in 1951, replacing the aforementioned 1518 and remaining in production for 34 years. That said, only 349 watches were produced in the entirety of its run, mostly yellow-gold with a handful of pink-gold models. This particular version comes with a Gay Freres bracelet, signed by the defunct Venezuelan retailer Serpico y Laino, as is the dial. Incredibly it was locked away in a safe for 60 years before coming to light in 2020. It subsequently sold for almost £3.2m.
Aquanaut Jumbo, reference 5168G-010
The sporty Aquanaut was initially part of the Nautilus family
The Aquanaut made an unspectacular debut in 1997, the first-generation model (reference 5060A) finding itself lumped in with the Nautilus collection. However, once Patek Philippe realised it had a hit on its hands, it became a collection in itself, overcoming the initial criticism regarding its very un-Patek sporty rubber strap—the first time the brand had dared to pair a watch with this material. There are now Aquanauts aplenty, but this white gold and khaki Jumbo version from 2019 is the embodiment of casual luxury.
Aquanaut Travel Time Advanced Research, reference 5650G-001
This Aquanaut boasts an ingenious time-zone correction system
Released in 2017 to coincide with the 20th anniversary of the Aquanaut, this unusual watch boasts a Spiromax balance spring with patented terminal curve, which essentially eliminates the effect of gravity on the running of the watch. This means it’s capable of achieving incredible accuracy. The second innovation, visible through the aperture on the dial, is an ingenious time-zone correction system that uses a single flexible piece of steel to adjust the GMT indication forwards and backwards—no gears, pivots or lubrication required. Only 500 of these watches were made.
Perpetual Calendar Minute-repeating Tourbillon, reference 5016
The reference 5016 keeps its tourbillon under wraps. Image courtesy of Phillips
The 5016 is the polar opposite of those hi-tech carbon fibre watches that look like they’re made from miniature Meccano (no names mentioned)—even if the price tag is about the same. Yes, it’s a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date display and minute repeater, but what really impresses us is the concealed tourbillon, something most brands would be eager to show off in a cut-away in the dial, but which Patek keeps hidden. The reason Patek never puts its tourbillons on display is likely due to the drying effect that sun and artificial light can have on the movement’s lubricating oils.
Golden Ellipse, reference 3848/1
The popular 3848/1 stayed in production for just over twenty years. Image courtesy of Bonhams
Soon after its 1968 release, the Golden Ellipse became the watchmaker's most identifiable model, thanks to its elegant elliptical case. It was so successful that by the late 1970s, there were 65 different versions of the Ellipse in production. The 3848/1 was introduced in 1977 and remained in production until 1998. It was one of the most successful models to come out of the collection and replaced the reference 3648. Its navy-blue dial, yellow-gold case and integrated mesh bracelet combined to create an ultra-sophisticated timepiece.
Sky Moon Tourbillon, reference 6002G-010
The Sky Moon Tourbillon boasts 13 complications
You know a watch is serious when it’s been worked on by Patek’s finest engravers and enamellers, and that’s before we get into the functions. The Sky Moon Tourbillon boasts 13 complications displayed via two dials, including a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date and a moonphase display, as well as a tourbillon and several astronomical functions. One hundred hours were spent on the case engraving alone. And if you’ve spotted the word “Email” printed on the dial (look closely below the moonphase subdial), that’s because it’s the German word for “enamel”. This astonishing watch may do many things, but it won’t get you online.
Gondolo, reference 5098P-001
Many Gondolo models feature tonneau cases, just like this one. Image courtesy of Phillips
Named after the Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau—with whom Patek Philippe had a strong relationship in the early 20th century—the Gondolo is one of the most distinctive pieces in the watchmaker’s line-up, with modern iterations famed for their Art Deco-inspired design. This model—reference 5098P-001—is a fine example of the contemporary Gondolo with its tonneau case, Breguet numerals and spade hands. Released in 2007, it was the first version in platinum, elevating the look and feel.
Cubitus, reference 5821
The Cubitus wasn't enthusiastically received on its 2024 launch
Few watch launches of 2024 caused as much clenching of fists and gritting of teeth as the Cubitus. Social media sent it to straight to jail without a fair trial and Patek Philippe’s president sniffily responded by saying that those who hated it will probably never be able to own a Patek anyway. Even now, it’s hard to look past the derivative nature of the design, yet there’s no denying the green-dial version is a handsome watch. This one scrapes into our list by the width of a hairspring.
