Feature: 5 Tudor Alternatives To A Rolex Datejust

You have to hand it to the Datejust, it’s a real stalwart of the Rolex line-up, still fresh-faced and a force to be reckoned with after nearly 80 years of continuous production. Of course, there’s no mystery in its enduring appeal. This watch—whether the classic version or the newer Datejust II, fluted bezel or smooth—sits bang on the border of conservative and casual.

It’s the white cotton shirt of the watch world. A bespoke Jermyn Street white shirt, obviously. Not something you’d buy in a pack of three for £8.99 at ASDA.

A classic steel and white gold Rolex Datejust, the horological equivalent of a crisp white shirt

Alas, as with any Rolex model, prices for Datejusts have shot up over recent years, with certain versions—such as the green palm-tree motif and ‘Wimbledon’ dials—being particularly sought after.

So what’s a Datejust devotee to do when they’re watching their pennies! Well, those priced out of the Submariner game in recent years have diverted their attention to sibling brand Tudor and its popular Black Bay series, which offers much of the build quality of a Rolex but at a fraction of the price.

And you could adopt the same policy if a Datejust is also beyond your budget.

In all the clamour over Tudor’s Black Bays, people have forgotten about the brand’s numerous non-dive watches that sit outside its heritage collections. Several of these, with their date windows, timeless designs and pared-down aesthetic, make a worthy alternative to a Rolex Datejust.

Not convinced? We reckon you will be after checking out these five underrated—and highly affordable—Tudor gems…

Tudor Royal M28500-0005

The Tudor Royal boasts classic looks and is as versatile as the Datejust

With its distinctive integrated five-row bracelet, there’s something of the Rolex Oysterquartz about the Tudor Royal, an elegant steel automatic watch that can be bought on the pre-owned market for around the half the price of an entry-level Rolex. We also love the eye-catching bezel on this beauty, which alternates between a polished finish and finely cut grooves. On the deep blue dial you’ll find applied Roman numerals and a date aperture at 3 o’clock—albeit without the benefit of a Cyclops lens. At 38mm it’s perfect for the smaller wrist and every bit as versatile as the Datejust.

Tudor Glamour Date 57000

Rose logo, or shield? With the Glamour, you get the best of both on the dial

Let’s say you’re a hardcore Tudor fan and can't decide which of their logos—the rose or the shield—you like best. Well, with this watch you get both on the dial, with the rose emblem at 6 o’clock replacing a bog-standard circular sub-dial for the small seconds, and a shield at 12 o’clock. The date aperture placed directly beneath the latter balances things out nicely. Now discontinued, the Tudor Glamour is about as glamorous as a teaspoon, but it is a handsome model that will never go out of fashion. At 42mm it’s also got a fair bit of wrist presence and a very un-Rolex-style bracelet.

Tudor Style M12500-0013

You could go for the understated yet subtly bling Style model with diamonds

Look carefully and you’ll see that the Tudor Style lives up to its name, thanks to a combination of diamond and tapered baton hour markers and a midnight blue dial, together with classic dauphine hands and a general demeanour of understated glamour. A 38mm case, discreet date window and three-link bracelet add cohesion to the look. The burgundy or black dial versions of this watch are also worth looking at, and there are also models without the diamonds, if they’re a little too ostentatious for your tastes. These models can be picked up for around £2k—another steal.

Tudor 1926 M91550-0005

The textured opaline dial on the 1926 model suggests more than an entry-level watch

Take a look at that opaline, textured dial (with a subtle waffle-effect), elegant seven-row bracelet and feuille hour and minute hands combined with alternating arrow markers and Arabic numerals. As for that blue—it’s the same shade as Santorini church domes or swimming pools. What’s not to like? At 39mm and with an automatic movement, it’s a bargain at around £1,500. As for the name, you’re probably wondering what the number 1926 has to do with anything. The year that Tudor was founded, perhaps? Well, yes, although Tudor didn’t actually release its first watch until 1946, Hans Wilsdorf having sat on the name for 20 years while he continued to build up the reputation of Rolex.

Tudor Prince Oysterdate

The vintage crowd could opt for a Prince Oysterdate with Cyclops date lens. Image courtesy of Bonhams

Finally, you could go down the vintage road with a solid, no-nonsense Prince Oysterdate. Aside from the movement, these models are almost all Rolex anyway, using the same case and Oyster bracelet. Some older Tudor Oysterdates, and other vintage Tudors, even have a Rolex-signed crown and caseback, plus they have the Cyclops lens above the date that Tudor has left out of its current watches. We’d love to see that feature return, even if its just on certain heritage models. This piece, reference 90520, is from the 1980s and is for the smaller wrist, at 35mm. Ones in decent condition go for around £2k.

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